Fashion Major Project - Softcore

Fashion Major Project

"Softcore" was a FAD Fashion Major project focusing on the current trends projected  for S/S 2020 - focusing on sustainability, versatility of materials and specific colour schemes as a key components of the design process. Our collections aim to highlight the importance of sustainability in fashion and to produce luxury designs without replying on valuable natural resources - concentrating on re-purposing and ethical ways of recycling. 

Brainstorming and Initial ideas

I wanted to create a collection that focused on colour, fabric manipulation and silhouette - taking lots of inspiration from Jil Sander, Jacquemus and Iris Van Herpen. 

Jil Sander's use of loose silhouettes and shapeless clothing, as well as their approach to aesthetics, served as inspiration towards androgynous elements of design that I hoped to replicate - specifically in The Ponza project and FW2021 . I felt that they'd be interesting to incorporate into this project as they're an older and more established brand which focuses mainly on minimalism - stating that "I think there is always a need for pure design- with pure design, you don't need so much decoration". Softcore had elements of such concepts, primarily concentrating on clean, soft lines with a muted colour pallet. I felt that using Jil Sander's approach to simple design and aesthetics, would help to explore the style of collection I wanted to create - adding complex elements in afterwards. 

Jacquemus' use of muted colours and small details, along with their approach to runway set design, helped me develop my initial inspiration with more complexity - namely the SS2021 L'AMOUR collection, which debuted on a makeshift 600m wooden catwalk, through a vast, dramatic wheat field. The collection focused on neutrals, khaki, and sand, with hints of sky-blue, reflecting the landscape - "It's got something with to do with happiness, yes, but I always want to try and create something very innocent." Jacquemus' approach to french inspired design and attention to detail inspired me massively during my development of Softcore. In the SS2021 L'AMOUR collection, a micro bar of Marseille soap was suspended on a gold chain - one of many accessories that served as instant conversation starters, whilst nodding at the current climate. I explored such ideas through mood-boards and collage, looking closely at how to add more complexity to my designs through natural materials - a common thread in all of Jacquemus' collections.

Collaging Samples

Collage became a way to bring together my initial ideas, inspiration from designers and samples made in the studio - forming my first "designs" for the Softcore collection. 

I focused mainly on the big pleated sample I created in the studio. I felt that it would have more versatility throughout collage, creating subtle textures and dimension - much like Jil Sander. I began to explore ideas of over-sized jackets, as designers that had inspired me commonly featured large, boxy outerwear - arranging the pleats of my recycled sample to emphasize the shape of the sleeves. Collage allowed me to begin experimenting visually. I was able to play around with a piece until I liked exactly how it looked, creating minimalist designs that reflected my initial ideas. The creative freedom I had with this exercise was inspiring and elements of my collection were broadened as a result. 

Contrasting Ideas of Shape and Silhouette

I started to look at contrasting ideas of shape and silhouette as part of my research and exploration. I loved the idea of having a collection that was gender-less or one that emphasized the female physique in a soft and elegant way but also included pieces that were more experimental and androgynous. My collection was to be for everyone and I didn't want to exclude anyone just because of their gender expression. I started thinking about how the shape and silhouettes of clothing are so often defined by how they're categorized. Structured, plainer silhouettes are often reserved for Menswear, whilst flowing, extravagant ones are seen more commonly in Womenswear. Designers are often afraid to accentuate the male physique but choose to showcase female form - I felt that it would be interesting to explore this idea through my own collection.

I took to line drawing to begin understanding this concept further. Perhaps the fabric would drape the female form, enveloping the figure instead of enhancing it but cling overwhelmingly to the male form, re-framing this unspoken rule surrounding silhouette. Drawing helped me to understand how the fabric could fall unaided on the body but also led me to think about having pieces in my collection that completely contrasted all those original ideas - ones that did actually accentuate the female form. I thought about creating the illusion of a piece of "art" rather than clothing, perhaps even molding to fit the body and celebrating all of it's flaws and complexities.

The affects of male gaze was also a conversation to be had when exploring the relationship between silhouette and womenswear. Male gaze refers to "the act of depicting women and the world from a masculine, heterosexual perspective that presents and represents women as sexual objects for the pleasure of the heterosexual male viewer". Although suggesting these two things are interconnected seems like a jump, I don't believe it is. I think the affects of the male gaze grows deeper than we realise. It can effect a women's self-esteem and self-objectification, but also generate feelings of anxiety about physiques and body shape - which the fashion industry unfortunately feeds into with the coming and going of trends often excluding plus-sized women. To question how the male gaze interferes with the fashion industry is to dismantle the stigma surrounding a "trendy" body size - which bleeds into how shape and silhouette is used depending on size and gender. I wanted to demonstrate that I had carefully considered all aspects of my collection and how it could be scrutinized by consumers. Exploring the impact of male gaze on fashion was complex but I would like to include such topics more frequently in my work.    

This project gave me an opportunity to understand my potential within fashion illustration, sampling and curating - all for a collection focused on sustainability. .